Improving Clay Soils by Clodagh & Dick
Handscombe
Clodagh & Dick Handscombe are active gardeners
and authors living in Spain. They have written a
trilogy of books - Your garden in Spain, Growing
healthy fruit in Spain and Growing healthy vegetables
in Spain.
As well as contributing to the Allotment Chat forums
they have their own web site called and about Gardening
in Spain
Ever since we became involved in growing vegetables
when five years old with parents and grandparents improving
clay soils in Ireland and the UK has been a priority.
And the challenge followed us to Spain. Here our raw
red clay soil was used until fifty years by villagers
to make home made bricks!
The top soil being a combination of particles from
the erosion of the side of the mountainside that we
live on - 400 metres up , ten kilometres from the Mediterranean
beaches -, natural humus from wild plants before
we cultivated it , and the red earth particles carried
from north Africa for millions of years by southern
gales that fall as 'red' rain. Called that
as the cars are that colour when they dry!
So we need to improve the clay soil in order to be
able to grow our organic vegetables and fruit ;
- on a 800 square metre allotment,
- a raised bed system we are currently constructing
in the garden for the time we loose the allotment
to the inevitable expansion of houses, and
- in the containers used to demonstrate to apartment
and town house dwellers that they can easily grow
vegetables and fruit in just a couple of square metres
of space as illustrated in the Part Two's of
our books ' Growing healthy vegetables in Spain' and ' Growing
healthy fruit in Spain', without the need for
excessive amounts of water and the use of manufactured
fertilizers.
The table below illustrates what we mix into the
raw clay soil to improve it:
The bulk ingredients are blended in by digging or rotovating
down to a depth of twenty to thirty centimetres for vegetables
and fifty for fruit trees or by tipping backwards and
forwards between two 20 litre plastic builders/gardeners
buckets when preparing soil/compost mixes for containers.
Additives to Improve Clay Soils
| Purpose |
Additives |
To lighten the soil, make it more workable,
improve it's water holding capacity and
at time make it more free draining.
|
Mix in two to three 20 litre builders buckets
of homemade*, Eco-park **or bagged compost per
square metre of soil.
|
| To further improve soil fertility.** |
Mix in a bucket of composted or dried bagged
manure per square metre.
|
To further improve it's water holding
capacity during hot dry weather.
|
Mix in a little TerraCottem soil improving
gel (www.terravida.com)
|
To further ensure it will be free draining
and not become waterlogged.
|
Mix in 5 to 10% course sand, grit or ground
lava.****
|
To make minor increases in soil acidity and
kill off lurking fungal spores.
|
Dust surface with sulphur powder |
To further kill off fungal spores plus young
slugs
|
Sprinkle surface with ground neem kernels
(www.trabe.net for
instance). |
| In areas for asparagus |
Mulch with partially composted seaweed from
the beaches after storms.
|
For plants preferring acid soil such as potatoes
and strawberries.
|
Mix in compost made from pine needles or/and
natural sulphur powder.
|
* Two nearby towns have Eco-parks that compost garden
rubbish from municipal parks and professional gardeners
and seaweed washed upon to beaches by storms. The sieved
compost can be purchased with or without seaweed at
only 3 euros a hundred kilos.
**We add comfrey leaves, rabbit and chicken manures
to our five pallet built compost bins as accelerators
and enrichments. We also have an experimental mini
worm composter to produce compost to mix into containers
and window boxes used for mini vegetable growing.
***We mulch rows of raspberries with comfrey leaves
and grass cuttings.
The rows of comfrey we top dress with well composted
chicken manure once as year. Comfrey leaves are wrapped
round seed potatoes and mixed into soil where beans
and peas will be grown.
****Naturally if we had a sandy soils we would leave
out the addition of course sand, grit or ground lava.
With such a mix plants have an ample supply of nutrients
and moisture to support steady healthy plant growth.
Only hungry fruit vegetable plants such as tomatoes
peppers and squashes, and fruit trees (after a couple
of years) are given supplementary feeds of a liquid
comfrey feed.
Nearby Spaniards who have abandoned the annual improvement
of soil with donkey, mule, horse, rabbit and sheep/goat
manure during the past thirty years now use excessive
amounts of water and inorganic fertilizers to grow
vegetables for the local market. Not only are they
often rather watery and lacking taste but the forced
growth is susceptible to insect and fungal attacks
in the hot and humid Spanish spring and summer climates..
Although ecological/biological solutions as well
as organic chemical solutions to such problems are
now available so we avoid using even these if possible
by growing naturally rather than by forcing. By the
way we only grow vegetables for personal consumption
ad not for shows - a phenomenon that is unknown
here in Spain.
As said in our books feed the soil and not the plants
for naturally tasty healthy plants.
Article
© Clodagh and Dick Handscombe May 2007
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