Allotment & Vegetable Gardening in September
There is no such thing as an absolute set
date for a job in gardening, for a start temperatures vary according
to where you are in the country.
Summer comes later to Scotland than Devon. Next, each year is
different; some warmer and some colder although the trend is
toward warmer, the exception proves the rule.
So, adjust for where you are and the weather
September is the end of summer although we're often lucky to have an Indian summer with blue skies and sunshine, nothing is certain with the weather. The bulk of the harvest comes home now and as crops come out the plot begins to empty
Harvest
The maincrop potatoes should be ready now. To repeat August's
advice regarding harvesting potatoes:
When you harvest your potatoes take care to remove all the tubers.
Any left will not only sprout next year and become a weed but will
also be a reservoir for disease and potato blight spores. It's
often worth forking over a few days after harvesting potatoes because
more seem to miraculously appear.
If blight has struck your potatoes the best method to
preserve the crop is to remove the haulm and dispose of it then
leave the potatoes in the ground for a fortnight or longer to
stop the spores getting onto the tubers.
It's best to harvest potatoes fairly early in the day, rinse them
off as they come from the ground and then leave in the sunlight
for a day to thoroughly dry off and harden the skins before storing.
Sort carefully and place perfect specimens into hessian or paper
sacks in a cool dark but frost free place. Damaged tubers should
be used first before they have a chance to rot and spread their
rot to the rest of the sack.
It's worthwhile to empty the sacks after a few weeks or a month
and check that there are no potatoes going off. Discard these before
they rot the sack. You might like to pop a few slug pellets into
the sacks as well. It's amazing how the slugs can appear no matter
how careful you are. If you are concerned about slug pellets, remember
these are in store and present no risk to wildlife.
You may well have reasonably sized parsnips now but they will
stay perfectly happy in the ground and do taste better after they
have had a frost on them.
The runner beans and French beans will be continuing to produce
and the last of the peas should be coming in. Compost the foliage
of the peas but leave the roots in the ground as the nodules on
them contain nitrogen.
The harvest will be in full swing and in addition to the above
you should have:
- Beetroot
- Cabbage
- Carrots
- Cauliflowers
- Courgettes
- Cucumbers
- Globe Artichokes
- Kale
- Kohlrabi
- Lettuce
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- Leeks
- Marrows
- Onions
- Pumpkins
- Radishes
- Spring Onions
- Spinach
- Sweetcorn
- Tomatoes
- Turnips
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From the greenhouse you should be picking aubergines, chilli and
sweet peppers as well as cucumbers and tomatoes.
If you grow fruit then the picking should be in full swing there
as well:
Apples, pears, plums, peaches from the trees, blackberries and raspberries
from the canes and strawberries from the bed.
Sowing, Planting and Cultivating
Sowing
There's not a great deal to sow now but surprisingly it's the
right time to sow winter lettuces such as Arctic King for spring
harvests.
The other salad crop is the winter hardy spring onion. I'd suggest
White Lisbon but ensure it is the winter hardy version.
Green Manure
Early September is the time to sow green manures. If you do not
need to dig over your plot as you do with heavy soils or intend
to spread manure on a patch then following on the last of a crop
with a green manure is a great idea.
The first benefit is that the green manure will hold onto soil
fertility that would otherwise be washed out by the winter rains.
In fact, sowing a legume such as Winter Tares will fix nitrogen
from the air.
Secondly, they will prevent weed growth so you will have less
work to do.
Finally they help improve the soil structure. In the spring you
just need to dig over and allow them to rot down for a few weeks.
One of the best green manures for winter growth is Hungarian grazing
rye. It continues to grow, albeit slowly, in cold weather and should
be around 15" tall come the spring from an early September sowing.
Not only will you have a lush mass of foliage but it also produces
a mass of roots that will provide humus for bacterial breakdown.
Planting Out
Your spring cabbage plants can be planted out now and over wintering
(Japanese) onion sets can go in for an early onion harvest.
You can plant out garlic as well although I prefer to plant it out
later in the year.
Cultivating
Keep feeding your tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. It's not really
worthwhile feeding other plants at this time of year as they are
nearly finished and the nutrients are best saved for the spring.
Keep the side shoots in check on the tomatoes.
Fruit
Tidy up the summer fruiting raspberries, cutting off the canes
that have fruited and tying in the new shoots that will bear next
year.
The summer fruiting strawberries can be attended to now as
well. Cut off the foliage about 1" from the ground, clearing
and weeding as you go. Any runners can be planted up to replace
3 year old plants that are best replaced now.
General Tasks
Keep an eye on your brassicas for butterfly eggs and caterpillars,
these will most probably be under the leaves. The greenhouse pests
should be declining but keep an eye out if the weather is good.
Making Compost
If you've not already done so, empty your compost bins. The compost
that is ready can be spread on the ground and the compost only
partially rotted returned to the bin to finish off.
You will probably have quite a bit of foliage ready to compost
and building a heap properly will help the transformation from
green waste to valuable compost. At the base of the heap place
woody material, sweetcorn stalks etc to allow some airflow up into
the heap. Next place a six inch layer of green material and add
some sulphate of ammonia or dried blood to add nitrogen. Just a
small sprinkling is sufficient, about 50g per square metre (2oz
per square yard) is about right.
Another layer of green material but this time lightly sprinkle
with lime to keep the pH up. Repeat the process and top off with
a piece of old carpet or some plastic sheeting to stop it getting
too wet in the rain and to keep the heat in.
The heap should heat up after a few days and be ready to turn in
four or six weeks. The smaller the particles the more surface area
they have relative to weight and the faster they will decompose.
If you have a shredder, this will be ideal but otherwise cut things
up with shears, crush things like brassica stems and they will go
down much faster.
If you don't have a shredder but do have a hover
mower you can lay foliage on the lawn and run over it with the
mower to shred it.
Monthly Vegetable Growing Articles
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